radiothebook Chapter 232 Cuisine
Chapter 232 Cuisine
Chapter 232 Cuisine
The time passed by one day, and it was Saturday, May [-]th.morning.
"Ding, the host's reward for signing in today is, 'Yanjing Hotel' spicy sea cucumber X10."
'Spicy Sea Cucumber' is an old Sichuan dish, needless to say, this must be Master Luo Guorong's signature dish.
Master Luo Guorong was mentioned earlier, as well as Master Chen Sheng, a national treasure of Cantonese cuisine.
Speaking of which, these two masters are good at shark fin, sea cucumber and abalone.What's more interesting is that in the catering industry in the 60s, as long as there are some well-known chefs, they basically have these three dishes in their specialties, regardless of whether they are east, west, north or south.
How is this going?
Such a "coincidence" is actually related to the fine division of labor within the catering industry and a history of "great unification".
From the beginning of the Qing Dynasty to before the 80s, the four major cuisines have basically taken shape.But this is based on the horizontal division of dishes and regions.
Vertically or from the chef's point of view, the catering industry is not divided by cuisines, but is divided into two distinct categories: one is called 'Yan steamed dishes', and the other is 'home-cooked dishes'.
The so-called "yan steamed dishes" are actually "noodle dishes", referring to the "swallow wing mat" and "sea cucumber mat" used by high-ranking officials and nobles since the Qing Dynasty.
But since the middle and late Qing Dynasty, no matter where the rich people treat guests, they always treat them with "swallow-wing banquet".It's like a "big unification", and the "Swallow Wings" began to dominate the world of high-end catering.
Whether it is Kyoto, Shanghai=Shanghai, Guangzhou=Zhou, Chengdu=all, etc., there are no exceptions.According to historical records, even the ministers stationed in Tibet in the Qing Dynasty used the 'swallow-wing mat' when entertaining guests in LS.
Gradually, no one ordered the second-class 'sea cucumber banquet', let alone home-cooked dishes.
Before the "Swallow Wing Banquet" completed the "unification" of the banquet and catering industry, the chef industry had already clearly separated its levels.
Those who can cook 'noodle dishes' are of course high-end 'white-collar workers' or even 'gold-collar workers', while chefs who can only cook home-cooked dishes cannot be on the table.Not to mention big restaurants, you can't even become the chef of a big family.
Chen Jianmin, who traveled to RB in [-] and later became the "ancestor of RB Sichuan cuisine", worked as a private chef in Zhang Daqian's house before.He was almost fired by Zhang Daqian because he didn't know how to cook noodle dishes, but Master Luo Guorong interceded and stayed behind.
Zhang Daqian complained: After all the speculation, it is like Mapo Tofu.
Not to mention, later on, they became gods in Japan with this mapo tofu, which is really a 'slap in the face'!
It's getting too far, let's recycle it.
'Great unification' formed the 60s and [-]s, and the masters engaged in high-end catering were basically the same.There is no distinction between north and south, and they all use the same textbook called 'Swallow Wing Mat'.
This textbook brings together four directors from Shandong, Guangdong, Huai, and Sichuan. The highest-level graduation certificates are bird's nest, shark's fin, sea cucumber, and abalone.
The direct disciple of Master Luo Guorong of Sichuan Cuisine later became the leader of Lu Cuisine, and this is how it turned out.What's so strange about a Peking University professor transferring to Tsinghua University?Anyway, it teaches the same thing.
Many people find it difficult to accept the unification of the 'Swallow Wing Mat'.Flowers are grown in a vast area, and tastes vary from place to place. Can a hundred or so noodle dishes really unify high-end dining?Yes, unbelievable, but true.
Take Sichuan, where Master Luo lives, as an example. In [-], "Chengdu General View" published a special introduction to Sichuan's famous dishes.
Among more than 100 dishes, there are only three spicy dishes, spicy sea cucumber, spicy chicken slices and spicy vinegar fish.
There are no boiled fish, spicy chicken, twice-cooked pork and other famous Sichuan dishes that are now familiar.Interestingly, there is not even 'Kung Pao Chicken'.
What could be called "Sichuan Famous Dishes" at that time?Braised shark's fin in braised sauce, bird's nest with rock sugar, fried chicken in sauce, steamed sea bass, emerald shrimp, crab meat and lion's head, etc.Does this famous dish look familiar?It seems that there are Shandong, Cantonese and Huaiyang cuisines, right?
With the abdication of Xuantong, folk catering began to prosper, and major cuisines appeared one after another.At this time, table noodle dishes are still the mainstream, but more often they are "divided into parts", returning to their original cuisines, and fused together with "home-cooked dishes".
When all industries recovered in the 80s, the four or eight major cuisines were highlighted.
And 'Xi Nian Cai' was already on the verge of extinction three to forty years ago, so that not many people even knew the name.
At the end of the 80s, various cuisines entered the arena, and competition became fierce.At that time, the home-cooked dishes that were hidden among the people and could not be served on the banquet table have now become the signature dishes and the trump card of various cuisines, and their status has undergone earth-shaking changes.Just like fish-flavored shredded pork, twice-cooked pork, spicy chicken
When it comes to Sichuan cuisine, I have to say some digressions.When I mentioned Chongqing Shanghe Gang and Xiahe Gang in the previous article, I said that they are regional guilds, not divisions of cooking techniques.
So before liberation, Sichuan cuisine was divided into schools or not?It is divided.
Just like later generations, stir fry, cold dishes, noodles, hot pot and so on.But the boundaries between each other are very strict.
Taking Chengdu as an example, chefs in Chengdu were divided into four sects before liberation: Yanzheng Gang, Fanshi Gang, Noodle Gang, and Marinated Stew Gang.The four sects each perform their duties and are clearly distinct.
The Yanzheng Gang only undertakes banquets, not home-cooked stir-fries.And do not make small stir-fried home-cooked meals as well as Dandan noodles, this is the "rule of the rivers and lakes" that everyone silently abided by at that time.
Yanzhengbang cooks 'noodle dishes', which is a high-end cuisine where masters come out.Master Luo Guorong came from this school.
Then think about the names of the other schools, meals, pasta, and marinade.The division of labor has been vividly seen on paper.
The same is true of other regional cuisines.It's just that Sichuan Paoge is a little bit more Jianghu, which is more representative.
There is another situation.Does Yan Zhan help with home cooking?Of course it will. Didn't Master Luo fry 'Kung Pao Chicken'?This is a dimensionality reduction operation.
But if you want to give a bowl of shark's fin to the chef of the 'Food Gang', he really doesn't know how to make it.So there are 'classes' in this industry, so I won't expand on it here.
It can be seen from Sichuan cuisine that the post-80s industry has been subdivided, and the stagnant pool has been completely invigorated.The limits of sects have been broken, and the potential of the cuisine has been dug out.
This is a great thing for the food culture of planting flowers, but it has caused a great loss to the cuisine of Kyoto.
It is said that the food in Kyoto is not good and there is no culture.Not to mention the Big Four, Kyoto cuisine can’t even be squeezed into the Eight or Ten Cuisines.This is true.
Well, you are absolutely right!
There is no cuisine in Kyoto.At least it was like this before liberation, there was no such thing as 'Beijing cuisine'.
Those who say that there is no food culture in Kyoto, do you understand this statement?The farther away from the power center, or the smaller the place, the more local characteristics can be maintained, and the food culture is more pure?
And Kyoto started from the Yuan Dynasty, Yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasties, the imperial capital of three consecutive dynasties, and the center of political culture.The sea is inclusive of all rivers, even if you want to be pure, you can't be pure.
Those who say that there is no food culture in Kyoto are considering Kyoto as a single city, not the imperial capital.Kyoto is actually the emperor in the cuisine, not the princes along the way.For the Beijing cuisine before liberation: I am the world, and the world is me.
Kyoto is the base camp of noodle dishes, and the export of food culture has gone to XZ, so what else can be considered educated?But later, Ximiancai disappeared, and the old nest was completely turned over.The winner is the prince and the loser is Kou, what are you talking about!The dull loss in Kyoto is a certainty.
If you want to scold me, I won't say any more.
When someone loses, someone gains.After the division of cuisines, Cantonese cuisine, which has been "profoundly accumulated and slowly developed", has the strongest momentum at the beginning.Since the 80s, with the spread of fishing village culture, Cantonese cuisine has blossomed all over the country.But in the future, Sichuan cuisine will benefit the most.
The journey of Sichuan cuisine has not been smooth.After experiencing the darkest moment when Cantonese cuisine was almost strangled in the 80s, Sichuan cuisine survived and became extremely strong.
After the 90s, heavy spicy and spicy flavors quickly spread across the country like popular culture, and firmly established a foothold in various places.Even the spicy "little brothers" such as Hunan cuisine and Guizhou cuisine have become popular.
Of course, this is all about things after the 90s, and noodle dishes in the 60s have just begun to decline.At this time, it was not so common for people in Kyoto to love spicy food.What a coincidence, the big leader happens to be among these people.
After Du Shouyi signed the spicy sea cucumber, he expected to have something to do with Uncle Xu.Sure enough, during the lunch break, Gong Xiaobei told him: Aunt Xu called and asked them to have lunch at noon tomorrow.
But this time they were just accompanying guests, Uncle Xu really "invited" Ning Jianguo and Xiaowei.After being in Beijing for so long, he still hasn't seen the two little brothers.
"Didn't my aunt say to see Xiaoan tomorrow?"
"Well, come as usual, we will go there together after watching Xiaoan."
"Oh, then I have to tell Dayong and tell him not to wait for Jianguo tomorrow. It's not polite to go to someone's house while soaked in sweat."
Life after Li Kuiyong's apprenticeship was not easy.Go to school during the day, go home after lunch and go to Xiong Ming to make up lessons, or come to work in the carpentry workshop.There is still a lot of homework in the evening, including calligraphy practice, waiting for him.
Du Shouyi wanted to fill up his time so that he would not have time to interact with little bastards.
When I saw Li Kuiyong at noon, he was lying on the workbench in the carpentry room, studying the drawings of the raised bed.
This is also the learning task Du Shouyi entrusted to him, to learn to deconstruct a whole piece of furniture, so that every accessory is well known.
"Master, are you here?" Li Kuiyong turned around and saw him and hurried over to greet him.
"Jianguo can't come tomorrow morning." Du Shouyi said as he walked towards the workbench and asked, "Any questions?"
He didn't wait for Li Kuyong's answer right away, he looked back and saw a look of disappointment on his apprentice's face.
"What's wrong?" he asked.
"Oh, it's nothing. Jianguo also said he came to teach me parkour this week."
Li Kuiyong's grandfather used to run a small bathhouse. With his family background, he has no hope of joining the army. It's useless to learn parkour.
The truth is so, but the words cannot be said that way.Du Shouyi thought for a while, and said what was in his mind,
"Take parkour as a physical exercise, don't get too obsessed with it. Right now, I'm just senior sister Ni and you as two apprentices. When Huaihua grows older, I'm going to take her as an apprentice, and then it will be just the three of you in this life." , no longer accept disciples.
The three of you will just stay by my side honestly in the future, learning about climbing up and down is not of much use.You and Jianguo, Xiaowei and other children who have to leave home and travel far and wide learn different things. ".
Du Shouyi also thought about what he said.Accepting apprentices is like raising a child, it is too tiring.Not only do they have to take care of eating and drinking, but also teach them how to do it.After teaching the skills, I have to find a job for them and be responsible to the end.It's such a hassle!
Look at the peaches of later generations?There are a lot of apprentices, and several small theaters have been built. He has to blame him for everything. Are you tired?
Look at the one who burns his head by smoking and drinking.The apprentice confiscated a few, and left a lot of time to raise small animals, drink small wine, and play rock and roll when he had nothing to do. Those days were comfortable!
He just realized after he settled the accounts with He Yuzhu last time, the child at his feet is only in an intensive class, so there is no need to find any apprentices outside?These children have been taught well, and this life will be worth it.
As for apprentices, let's take three.Didn't Tang Seng only accept three apprentices?Can his ability be greater than Tang Seng?
In the future, I will recruit some students, students and so on, so I don't have to worry about it anymore.
Du Shouyi's words contained a lot of information, and Li Kuyong's mind didn't turn the corner.He didn't understand until the master left for a while: just three apprentices? !
He has seen Xiaodang Sophora japonica before, she is the daughter-in-law of the master who hurts like an eyeball, so he is the only one with a real 'foreign surname'?Then wouldn't he become the face of Master to the outside world? !
Li Kuiyong was thinking about this in his heart, and when he returned home, he was still a little bit out of his wits. When his mother saw her, she asked, "What's the matter, Dayong? Was your master scolded you?"
"No, master doesn't swear." Li Kuiyong thought for a while, and then said: "Master told me today that he is going to accept three apprentices. Senior sister, me, and junior sister Huaihua. He doesn't plan to accept any more apprentices in the future." Now, let us just stay with him."
"Ah? What do you mean?" Li Kuiyong's mother didn't understand right away.
"The three apprentices are all the face of the master, the senior sisters and sisters are still the master's daughters, and I am an outsider, and I am the only man.".
At this time, "outsider" is no longer a bad word, it represents a fortune, a profound blessing.Maybe this is fate wanting to make up for the shortfall of Li Kuiyong's previous life.
(End of this chapter)